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Have you tried the latest trend in shampooing?  It’s called “reverse hair washing.”   Behind the chair,  I talk about how to “properly” wash your hair to someone DAILY (read through for proper shampooing instructions ) and this throws a little bend in my usual instructions but it makes some perfect sense.  Let me explain.

MOST PEOPLE  shampoo (sometimes twice) then massage conditioner from roots to ends (a big no-no) and waited two minutes before rinsing.  Fans of this hot new trend will supposedly leave even fine hair looking with va-va-va-volume without product and blowout.

What they are discovering is no matter how well you rinse your hair after conditioning, you never quite manage to get it all out and the residue weighs your hair down, making it limp and dull.  How is this possible?  I’ll tell you why. Cheap shampoos and conditioners.

The advocates of reverse shampooing are using OTC shampoo and conditioners that are full of sulfates (detergents) and wax that coat hair and make it flat and limp. So when you shampoo your hair after conditioner, you’re actually washing aways a couple coats of that waxy conditioner and your hair is POOF, like magic, more voluminous.

BUT that’s not the big deal.  The big deal is that the only thing alive in your hair is the hair follicle, which is located under the skin.  How you nourish that is through a healthy diet, vitamins, water and exercise.  WHat grows out is technically “dead.”  So if you want shiny, frizz-free, breakage-free locks and they’re not growing out of your head that way you need GOOD QUALITY PRODUCTS, low heat styling and timely haircuts on those locks.

This is how I look when I shampoo my hair, don't you?

This is how I look when I shampoo my hair, don’t you?

To properly shampoo your hair you should:

1. COMB – Detangling now, helps you later.

2.RINSE, RINSE, RINSE – lots of that superficial dirt and oil can be rinsed done the drain without anything touching it at first.  Not to be gross, but back in the 90s when I was in beauty school and I would wash those 1-week shampoo clients, woah! WHen I first started rinsing the water would BEAD off their hair because of the oil, then when it would penetrate the water looked like a foamy mess going down the drain BEFORE shampoo was ever introduced.  Doing this will save you scrub time and not to mention $$$, now you use LESS shampoo.

3. SCRUB, SCRUB, SCRUB – This scrubbing motion helps to loosen dirt and clean your hair. Don’t massage!  SCRUB.  If you are sudsing, guess what?  you don’t need another shampoo.  Suds are a clear sign your hair is CLEAN.  Scrubbing also helps  stimulate blood-flow to the scalp encouraging healthy hair and scalp by delivering that nutrient rich blood from your healthy diet and vitamins you’re taking, right?

4. RINSE – all of it. OUT!

5. CONDITION ENDS ONLY! – Your scalp doesn’t need conditioner, usually.  Your scalp produces oils and conditions your hair naturally.  If you put conditioner on their, plus your oils- BOOM!  greasy, flat hair.  SHort hair, doesn’t even need conditioner in most cases every day, just occasionally.  If your scalp is super-dooper dry, I recommend a monthly scalp treatment with your haircuts and scalp soothing oils.  Conditioner might help temporarily relieve this issue but it’s too thick to nourish the scalp.

6. RINSE, AGAIN – but this time, after it’s all out rinse yourself with cool H2O. This will close the cuticles and give your hair added shine.

7. TOWEL DRY – Never rub the hair. ESPECIALLY curly or fine hair.  And if you have both?  Woah! More of a reason to stop rubbin’.   This causes tangling and damage the cuticle of the hair. You need to tak ethat towel and pat and squeeze the water out. Ladies and Gents – perfect your turbans.

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WIDE TOOTH COMB – no brushes please!

NOTES:

1. Washing too often will dry your hair out.  Start by washing every other day.  SO your hair is greasy by the end of the day?  That’s because you’re over washing. It happens to your skin as well.  You body naturally produces more oil to keep you moisturized because it knows your leaving it with nothing by over washing.

2. Professional products only require a quarter or less sized amount of shampoo and conditioner.  Higher end lines like #Oribe and #ShuUemura say only a dime. AND THEY MEAN IT.   Yeah, that cheap OTC stuff you use is actually costing you more money because you glob it into your hair and buy it every week.  My shampoo usually lasts me about 5-6 months and when my hair is short- probably a year.  I know it’s sometimes a big initial sticker price, but it’s sooooo worth it  to use high quality ingredients.

3. WET HAIR IS FRAGILE.  It can break!  It’s also more elastic (that’s why your hair is longer when it’s wet!  WOW- just blew your mind, I know)  Be gently when you comb (wide tooth, preferably) through it – no brush ! Because you can be the reason you get breakage and split ends. And to my Rapunzels out there – I don’t like round brushes that much, but if you’re going to use one, finger dry your hair 80% before using your round brush.  That brush has lots of tension and your wet,fragile hair loves to SNAP under pressure and 380F blow dry heat.

Thank you, and have a nice day!